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Renewable Energy Discussion on various alternative energy, renewable energy, & free energy technologies. Also any discussion about the environment, global warming, and other related topics are welcome here. |
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![]() I tried several different coils and cores except what Matt described, which is also similar to the casting of magnetite cores with strong magnets at each end during curing process. What I believe is that the coil should have about 50-60 Ohms to keep input current low. I got distracted for the past couple of days with testing scalar poles. Thanks Vtech
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'Get it all on record now - get the films - get the witnesses -because somewhere down the road of history some bastard will get up and say that this never happened' General D.Eisenhower http://www.youtube.com/user/blackchisel97?feature=mhum |
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Improved 555 timer
Hello everyone!
I was looking for a better 555 timer with separated frequency and pulse width pots and I found this little circuit: RMCybernetics - DIY Homemade Signal Generator with Pulse Width Modulation also here: RMCybernetics - DIY Homemade Power Pulse Controller I did a simulation with it and it goes nicely from 15Hz to 500kHz, if you push it it goes up to 2Mhz, but the pulse width adjustment is not good at high frequencies. This circuit should be good enough for our radiant energy research. ...there are 4 switches in the picture because there was no rotary switch for the simulation... ![]() |
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Awesome kapierenundkopieren!! Incredible High Frequency output!! I see it has a 'Dual Tank' circuit of resistors and V.R's...plus an external Voltage Comparator (LM393), that's great and simple to build! Now, I see on your simulation Graphic of SQ Wave, NOT being a completely vertical drop down-up lines...Is that an error of software-picture? ...or is it the way it is suppose to 'raise-drop' the square wave? Honestly I have no idea what impact could it have on RE downloading...will have to test it. But the range of output frequencies is lovely!! Thanks much! Ufopolitics |
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It very impresive to hear your story of self Discovery on Radiant Energy...it is nothing like it (imagine being Tesla when he all alone discovered it in an Internet less world!!! ![]() any way, would keep in touch with you and discuss on my development in my work as it progresses. Bye PRECURSOR |
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Find the Same circuit
Hello,
I found a video on you-tube where a Russian guy explaining the same circuit. shematic free energy - YouTube p.s: can any one translate it? Regs. |
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rise / fall time
@Ufopolitics
Hello Ufopolitics. Well the rise and fall time limit of the 555 timer is 100ns (as you see it on my picture). You got me thinking, so I checked the rise/fall time at 528Hz (the frequency of your original circuit) and found out that the rise/fall time is rather big - 5us (microseconds). Your original circuit had a rise/fall time a bit more than 1us (microsecond) at 528 Hz. So it's like you said - will have to test it. I hope it works OK. ![]() |
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Hi Ufo,
I have 3 questions I would like to ask. 1- Just wondering about these diodes you spoke of in post 49 - "And yes, I do know about the intrinsic diode on MOSFET's...in my circuits I always use an extra one right next to each MOSFET's of the Parallel Bank, since they are not as strong as a dedicated component specifically for those reasons..." These diodes don't seem to be on the circuit diagram. Do they need to be included or are they not needed? 2- What is the purpose of the 50v 1000uf capacitor, and I suppose a 63v one would be ok to use? 3- I am also trying to understand the diagram with the red and blue arrows, showing the flow of hot electricity with red arrow and cold electricity with the blue arrow. I understand that the diodes keep out the hot electricity, but it looks as if the cold electricity flows through the diodes as if they are not there. I can only assume that the diodes have no effect on cold electricity in the way that you are trying to show. Am I correct in this understanding? Thanks netica |
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Hello Netica, Ok, First, the diagram on post #49 have the batteries polarity wrong, should look at post #126, where Blackchisel kindly fixed for me, my mistake, however, there has been a long discussion on this mistake-repair in previous posts... Related to the Blue-Red arrows flow of cold-hot...I have been looking for that diagram but did not find it...will look for it and re- load it. 1-The diodes running as enhancement to the intrinsic diodes on MOSFET's are not in the original circuit, I did not want to complicate things there, but depending on the Load, meaning the Coil spec's and the output you are intending to feed, I will put the diodes as a protection to MOSFET's. But to be honest, once you set your diodes at the Coil, the supposed 'spikes' and Back EMF is gonna go to your light through the Gate Diodes at Coil. However I put them there just to protect the transistors. 2- The Capacitor is part of the Voltage regulator circuit...I do it to maintain a steady supply-demand more efficiently and to absorb any reversed flow instead of the LiPo Batteries . Yes, a 63 Volt would be even better rated voltage wise. I also added a switch at Voltage regulator circuit right there where the Cap and positive input is to LM317. (Not in the Original Circuit either. 3-The Gate Diodes (at Coil) block the Hot electricity to get into the Cold side...Remember that the Cold electricity runs OPPOSITE to the Hot, therefore the diodes will benefit its flow, they, (diodes) are completely 'forward bias' to the traffic of Radiant Energy flow. That's why I set up the arrows on both sides, following the traveling path for both currents. So take a look again, and also look at the magnetic polarities for both currents (Red-Blue Poles) at the Coil ends, they are also opposite. I hope this explain it better... Thanks Ufopolitics Last edited by Ufopolitics : 03-05-2012 at 06:54 PM. Reason: Adding correct picture |
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Thank You!!
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I want to thank You very much for your kind words. Yes I have looked and studied every single patent from Nikola Tesla, to Bedini...going through the many more like Ed Gray, Muller, Meyer, DeGeus, Russel, Hutchinson, Don Smith, Rosemary Ainslie...and many many more...I mean the works. I am glad you will stay tuned and making your own testing. That is great!! Cheers and good luck!! Ufopolitics |
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Dual Anti-Phase Channels
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I think it should work...now, I see in the Data Sheet of the LM393M that there is a 'Output B (Leg#7, not connected here)'...Is that the Anti-phase square wave in synchronicity with the square wave shown in diagram by output 1 of IC LM393M, since I see that Invert Input A (leg #2) and Non Invert Input A (Leg#3) are connected to 555 Timer? Anyways, I see that it also has TWO Inputs for B Output , Inverted and none inverted...so, using another 555 as Inverted signal ONLY, could be also used, just in case...and run it through this output B...Yeah, I figured it out already, so do not 'warm' up your Pentium if you do not know the answer on this subject... ![]() The reason am asking is because I want to run it through Dual Anti-Phase Channels, like I have now with two 555 IC, where one is the master (originating signal) and the second does the "Mirror Anti-phase" P-Channel MOSFET's gate signal...It could also be done even much better and more compact, with a 556 Dual Timer IC. Now, It is NOT a "Push-Pull" arrangement!!...It is a simultaneous, exactly, same time High-Low Pulse, where one goes to N-Channels, and other to P-Channels accordingly. Dual Anti-phase Channels works much better than just N-Channel original oscillator. I mean really better...the reason? It benefits the traffic flow of Cold electricity better, like putting Two Light Signals instead of just one...and the positive from Hot will not be there "full-time". I will give a detailed diagram and explanation of this oscillator further on. Thanks kapierenundkopieren!! Great finding here!! Ufopolitics Last edited by Ufopolitics : 03-05-2012 at 07:21 PM. Reason: correction, grammar |
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It looks "Similar" but is NOT the same as mine here. The diodes related to Coil are set the same way. However, He takes the Cold electricity Negative Diode from Inductor (Positive from Vcc) and take it to Hot Ground...by doing this, He is just feeding the Hot Electricity ground with Negative from cold. They do not "mix"...nothing will happen...and by doing that,it is NOT a Complete Isolation of both currents like I had displayed here. Later on He adds a Load (Lamp Symbol) to Positive diode from Cold , which is connected through a Condenser or Ceramic Cap to hot ground...Here, he is feeding the lamp with One positive from Cold and the two negatives from both currents...which eventually will not do much... He is just 'Crashing' Cold with Hot currents right there through the load... This two currents are completely different, they travel opposite to each others...always, and a negative from one will do nothing with the positive from the other one, but a Spike or a crash ...any 'mixing' of the two will fall in what we all have today so far... Thanks for your comment. Regards Ufopolitics Last edited by Ufopolitics : 03-05-2012 at 10:42 PM. Reason: adding some more info... |
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Hello Ufopolitics!
I'm very curious about your dual anti-phase channels idea. Can you make a scheme about how the N-channel and P-channel mosfets would work? Thanks! Last edited by kapierenundkopieren : 03-06-2012 at 12:48 PM. |
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To create a Dual Anti-Phase Channeling Traffic is a very simple approach... For example, the same circuit I posted here, I converted into a Dual Channel. I added a "Second floor' small board and set there another 555, the Cap to ground (.01) , the 100 Ohms resistor to the 330 Gate ,for the New P-Channel MOSFET's Gate and a small 10K V.R or Trimmer. The original 555 continues the same as before, except I converted one side of the Drain bar independent for P- Channel, so the original 555 will be driving N-Channels only. Then from same leg #3 (to gate of N-FET's) derived a connection to Pin #2 (Trigger) of 2nd 555...This one would be outputting from its pin #3 to the P-Channels through a 100 Ohm R to the three 330 Ohms via Gate of P-Channels. Now in this circuit you posted here is even simpler...do not need a second 555...Just derive from the same Inputs (Input A, let's call it 'straight', and Inverted Input A) of LM393M and set them the other way around at Inputs B...In order that Inverted Input B will connect to the straight Input A, and straight Input B will connect to Inverted Input A...Finally Output B goes to P-Channel MOSFET's . It should work perfect that way...I will be replicating this circuit by the end of the week, like I wrote here, so I will come back and tell you how it worked out. And...of course, I will first read-measure Low voltage signal in Oscilloscope, prior to hooking up MOSFET's... This type of Oscillator does not have any application so far in normal, typical electronics...however, there are several Patents since 1996 related to Anti-phase Dual Channel Output Oscillators. Mainly they are used in Medical and Satellite-Telecom Equipments... A simple graphic of two 555 timers in Anti-Phase would be this "MOSFET Tester" below: www.x-simulator.de/forum/download/file.php?id=3716 Cheers Ufopolitics |
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![]() Greetings, ufoplanet,
Thankyou for taking the time to post, and its a shame that you have had to deal with some unpleasantness. I realise that their are many know it all techies on here with closed minds, but also many who are quite the opposite. It would have been a great shame, and loss if you had fallen pray to the negative ones'. I have a little electronic background from the Air force and thereafter, but it is only recently I've been involved with Zero Point Energy. I personally do not care to get into how it all works beneath the surface, as its far too complicated and not necessary. No more than I need to know how to use a TV etc. I admire all who have the gift as in yourself. You started this thread off with reference to a DC motor. I would greatly appreciate if you would share information on how I can use radiant energy for the the DC motor in my Mobility Scooter so that it and the batteries give me greater range, and can be charged at the same time. Please point me in the correct direction with circuit diagrams, and parts etc. I am looking into Bidini chargers, and relay charger systems, but am looking for something I can simply build and is efficient. I wonder if you are an ET...I Am? Thanks for all you've shared, and take it easy, Wings ![]() ![]() |
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wingstalysis
I hope Ufopolitics does not mind me posting this. Hopefully he has a better
solution for what you are after. I just wanted to suggest you check out the three battery generating thread. The reason I say this is that I read a post at Overunity.com where Turion had first posted the "three battery charging" concept, and the one posting thought that this would be a good system to use on his electric motor scooter. It may not be what you are looking for, but it would not hurt to check it out. You would probably get some benefit from it if you applied it properly. Or maybe Ufopolitics will have a better solution for you if it does not meet your needs. George |
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Well, there is a bit of info needed in your Scooter spec's...So I could direct you to the right paths...If it is a BLDC (Brush-less DC) Motor, there is not much I could do for you...but if it is a Brushed Motor I could help you. Then I would need the Voltage-Amps supply and the type of Controller it has (Brand-Model, Voltage-Amps and C.L (Current Limiting) ratings. I had designed and built an specific Motor for a Bosch-Badsey Scooter...used to be 24 V 33 A System, dual gel batteries...and I got to run it with 36V 6.3 A...out of a 3Pack R/C Electric Helicopter LiPo batteries...for much longer time than the heavy lead acid-gel batteries...actually you could stick this batteries in your pocket. I used exactly the same controller I have in this post...The typical controllers are built with a Heavy 'Fire Wall' against Back EMF...that would not apply here...it will overheat something in my type of system...batteries or motor...not good. Now, to run it with Radiant Energy if you have a brushed motor is relatively simple, all you need is a Primary-Secondary Coil of same wiring as your motor gauge...rated for your supply system (V-A). I would say that depending at the configuration of how many brushes, [if it has four or two] then you could figure out the turn ratio per contact of brushes-commutator to rotor coils, in order to build your coil accurately. Then, run the motor out of the Secondary-Primary (After Diodes) both in series of your new coil...You will get super power, the motor will run very cold to freezing levels.. ![]() Actually all you have done, is to run the motor with what Physics call Back EMF, yes, "PURE Back EMF"...We took -this time- the "Parasitical" Hot Electricity out of our System... ![]() Cheers Ufopolitics |
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My pleasure!...Yes, eventually We will crack it...I had done it already, just waiting to hear from some guys who were doing my replications... I have achieved incredible results...but like everything, there is always trouble, problems finding specific materials, components and equipments...Which actually tells me I am on the "Right Track"... ![]() Now I am having trouble with the Core of a Coil am building...just because the center fine 5/8 steel core is overheating due to excessive high frequency oscillating opposite magnetic fields galore...Today I just Torch the heck out of it, to almost melt it...and submerged in cold water in order to crystallize it , to make it loose its saturation or magnetic 'memory'...will see results tonight. The "Ideal Core" for this application would be a Nano Crystalline type of Ferromagnetic core...but no luck finding it in a near by store... But will keep going...results as outputs are wonderful other than the heating problem. And I could add Heat sinks, or a small fan...but that is not a scientific solution...just a patch... Thanks! Ufopolitics |
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Thanks so much! Tony |
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Thanks for your time. Tony |
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![]() ![]() Normally an Automotive fan motor (depending on Car Manufacturer) is made out of two brush system, basically if it comes from Japanese models, unless is a Bosch type used in some Dodge-Chrysler Caravans , then those are 4 brush. A simple test is to set at Input of Motor a Digital meter at continuity (Diode/Beep) and rotate the shaft till you have contact, then go to Resistance Measure...that gives you an idea of the Coil, normally is low Ohms. For safety, I will use 18 Gauge, and turn primary exceeding resistance on Motor (That's the idea)...because Coil will be running "Full Time" while rotor coils are constantly switching and 'idling' (not full time on). This System is great...You "Accelerate' through the Coil...not directly to Motor...and Coil transforms to Cold electricity to Motor...in a running vehicle, the Coil could be set with an air scoop to enhance normal operating temp or heat sink for longer operating times... till we find the right Core Material. I have done this tests...wonderful results ! Last edited by Ufopolitics : 03-09-2012 at 01:23 PM. |
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By the way...the Crystallized Steel by Heat worked out great...better than before...but still am looking for excellence...I may have to make my own cores...no sweat. Cheers and happy testing!! Ufopolitics |
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Oh, ufopolitics, thank you so much for this!! I am starting to look for the components to make a test. I hope that you will have time to answer some newbie questions.
In your experience, how much drain will the battery sustain? In other words, will the battery "last" twice as long? I know that you can't give an exact answer, just give your experience, please. Thanks you again! Tony |
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No problems on answering questions... Actually, the core does not have to be that specific...a solid steel tube will do...or even air core will work for this purpose. The batteries will use "nickel and dimes"...while the Motor goes full blast and cold, really cold...and no commutator sparks either...speed galore..beyond spec's (I measured with Infrared RPM's...) And if not using steel...no D3, D4 are needed, since Hot induction will be very poor...Milli-volts... I am gonna make a video on this testing... But I am working now on 'Internal' Induction...that's where am having heat problems...exterior Cold Electricity Induction is great. Let me know how it went. Cheers Ufopolitics |
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UFO,
You mentioned, Quote:
FWIW -Enjoying the posts and all the fine R&D. Bob |
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Well, I don't know about those ferrite beads...The core am working on is relatively small...It is 5/8 inches OD and 2 1/4 Inches long...and could be even shorter...it is the strongest area where the RE Interactions take place within the primary... But I am building some cores...with steel dust collected from my work on the Coil Fins...broiled up to perfection then frozen...set over a bed of high temp resin...and carbon fibers running along...doesn't it sounds appetizing ..hehe?? Anyone have any suggestions what else could I add to this delicious plate??... ![]() Cheers Ufopolitics |
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Excuse my slow response in responding to your most important answers, and request for further data. I am most excited about that which you kindly shared. I will take a look at the DC Motor in my Mobility Scooter and let you know everything I can. I'm pretty sure it has brushes. I'll be back in touch soon as I can. Thanks again UFO for your kindness. I wish I was gifted as you are in this exciting futureistic technology that has patiently been awaiting to be recognised and utilised by Humanity. Take it easy UFO, and have a no worries day in Florida-watch out for Aligators. Wings ![]() |
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The idea with crystallized iron and resetting memory got me thinking about magnetite powder cores cast in polyester. I remember watching Peter Lindemann video where he describe importance of placing strong magnets at each end during curing process. I also think that hollow cores maybe superior to solid ones. I used them in one of my early generator tests and they work better than solid iron core. Thanks Vtech
__________________
'Get it all on record now - get the films - get the witnesses -because somewhere down the road of history some bastard will get up and say that this never happened' General D.Eisenhower http://www.youtube.com/user/blackchisel97?feature=mhum |
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