Hey Blackchisel

Yes, am using polyester resin..but just steel powder, zinc, brass...and carbon fiber along core(Carbon is to make further testing on magnetic and electrical properties).
I agree on the Hollow Cores, Radiant Energy strongest point takes place right in the center of Coil...I had felt it, it is a strong push-pull force of both magnetic fields pulsing, further on I made an specific tool to detect the exact area...I made a brass bar, hooked up to a couple of copper rings that swivel rotate in vertical and horizontal plane-axis related to coil inner core, the center of the 'tool' holds a flat cylindrical ceramic magnet mounted in a copper frame...(except magnet, everything else, even the bolts and nuts are Non Magnetic materials) that rotates in the first inner ring...Well, when I go inside the coil at pulsations...the magnet becomes a fast speed motor...and as I take it away from center it starts loosing power...This helps you "see" the exact areas...by moving it around the core up-down, South-North.
I also converted a Car Digital compass (mirror mount type) in another tool to detect N-S Changes...however the electronics-processors are not designed to go at those fast changes-pulses of polarities...the mechanical tool...even it looks like it belongs to Maxwell Lab from the 1800's ...works out superb.

Cheers

Ufopolitics

Thanks, UFO, for this. I have read this 10 times and am still unsure how to determine how many turns for the primary and secondary. Since I am an electric motor newbie, would you please tell or show me how to determine this? I am looking at a different motor armature and need some coaching to understand what you mean .

Thanks for your patience.
Tony

Ufopolotics,
I love what you are doing here, and can't wait to replicate your design. Your latest circuit reminded me so much of what we are doing on the "3 Battery Generator" thread where we are running the motor between the positives, which seems to cause the BEMF to reverse polarity, passing through the EMF on the same wire, and hitting the primary batteries between the pulses caused by the brushes in the 12 volt DC motors we are using, causing the primary batteries to recharge. (or so I believe) I would love to have your input or suggestions on what we are doing there. Attached is our basic circuit. We hook a load directly to battery 3, (which has to be a bad battery with minimum voltage in order to maintain the potential difference) and the motor speeds up. When that load is balanced with the load on the motor, the motor will speed up AGAIN within 3 to 5 minutes and then the system goes into a "zone" where it pulls almost nothing out of the primary batteries. I have had 10 to 15 hour runs where the voltage on them barely goes down, and recovers after rest time. And its not just a surface charge, because it maintains this voltage when connected directly to a load. If you care to jump in and give us any input I would sincerely appreciate it.

Dave

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Ok...I tried out this circuit on an air core pulse motor and noted the following:

* ELIMINATES (CEMF)....

* ELIMINATES the inductive kickback.

* The draw remains the same, no reduction in consumption when using this method.......future testing may prove otherwise.

* Motor top speed is severely limited! Machine doesn't reach normal cruising speed...

Motor windings heat up! This even though the draw is low?!?



Conclusion...

Aside from experiencing the CEMF being eliminated, I did not note any decrease in circuit draw, nor did I experience the device or the control circuit cooling....

Do you have a video of any of your tests? I need more information...more than whats being provided...

Regards

ERFINDER, did you use the exact same circuit that he gave in this thread?

UFOPOLITICS, I have the following Ford Radiator fan motot to try this with:

Ford part # is F8LH-8K621-AA
Siemens # is 162-022-05

I put my meter across 2 of the 3 motor leads and slowly rotated the rotor. The highest resistance that I got was 2.8 to 3 Ohms. It has 4 brushes.

Would you recommend that I use this motor for a test? Also, should I build a bifilar coil with 18AWG wire with resistance greater than 3.0 for each winding? What value of resistance would you recommend for this?

Thanks for your help!! I am looking forward to great things.
Tony

Hi Ufo,

I have built the circuit but doesn't work yet. I have found that where there is supposed to be 12v after the LM317 voltage regulator I am only measuring 3v. Can you just check to see if everything is correct on the regulator side of the circuit.

Thanks netica

@Netica
Having the same problem.
When leaving out resistors and replacing values I get 12v.
But I don't know if this is the wright way.

Did you catch that the original posted circuit had a wire missing? It was corrected in a diagram I posted as well as one other person here who also made the modifiction once UFOPolitics made note of this to us.

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@ewizard
Yes the wire is adjusted, but the math is not correct.
Following the math in this schematic
LM317 Variable Power Supply

In Ufo's schematic the voltage would be V = 1.25(1+(R3/R4))
so Output voltage is 1.25(1+220/10000)= 1,3V
According to the formula R4 should have a value of 1892 ohms though to get 12V.

Bert

@Netica
@bbem

Hi guys! The Ufopolitics voltage regulator works good in a simulation and so it should in real life - it's a simple circuit.
Could you please recheck and make sure that your voltage regulator is connected like this?

Hey there UFO!

Nice work brother! Can I please ask, for purposes of replication, the following:

Input Coil:
Inductance: ?
DC Resistance: ?
AWG: ?
Turns: ?
Core OD: ?
Supplied Voltage: ?
Supplied Amps: ?

Bi Filar: (yes or no and connection type, series or parallel centre tapped) (if this is different than your last Motor Diagram that is)

Your Resonant Frequency: ? (on the 555 timer output pin)

Output Coil:
Inductance: ?
DC Resistance: ?
AWG: ?
Turns: ?
Output Voltage: ?
Output Amps: ?

Bi Filar: (yes or no and connection type, series or parallel centre tapped) (if this is different than your last Motor Diagram that is)

Output Frequency on the Output: ? (The Frequency on the output - scope probes in your video)

You said in one post: don’t worry about the coil to much yet. Could it be that the coil is the trick here? The winding and wiring of this coil may be where the Negative Resistance is coming from? I am more than happy to replicate your device if you can provide me with the above information. I have been around for a bit and I don’t give up easily.

So let me know and I will do the best I can to replicate your setup.

All the Best - EMJunkie

Also UFO, if you can please record the Duty Cycle on your input please. Maybe worth noting any harmonic distortion on the oscillator also if you can?

I am guessing 50% DC but I may be way off here. I also think there is no harmonic distortion on the output of the oscillator also but still worth asking.

Thanks again - EMJunkie

Hi Kapier,

After seeing your simulation I decided to recheck the regulator but this time I disconnected the regulators output from the rest of the circuit.
I measured the voltage and found that the voltage measured 13.20v. So I connected it up to a 12v bulb, the bulb did not light.
I then checked the amps and found I couldn't measure any. So, at this time I still think that the regulator circuit needs to be looked at. I have voltage but no amps.

Hi ewizard, I am using the corrected circuit

netica

@Netica
Yes the same over here..
@Kapierenundkopieren
Thanks for helping out.

Bert

Hello Erfinder,

This circuit DOES NOT eliminates CEMF...IT RUNS ON CEMF...
Therefore there is not supposed to be any kickback...
Did you check for Brush sparks "On Normal Operation" versus My Circuit here?
I did NOT use an Air Core Motor...probably it does not work with them...
Normally Air Core motors are very small or miniature motors...built to work on very low Milli Amps and Voltages...I do not recommend them for this testing.
Do it with a Radio Shack small brushed, cheap motor...steel core.

I have used many motors on this test, from cheap to very expensive ones...They ALL work great.

Good luck

Ufopolitics

Hey EMJunkie....

Do you want me to also build the replication for you?...should I send it UPS or FEDEX?

Must of what You are asking is on this thread...except the obvious things that could be calculated by having One or Two Parameters...like Inductance...having the AWG and Turns and Diameter of core...I mean, there are hundreds of "On Line calculators" for this things on the net...
Bifilar , I said works out better...but originally I used a single wire in LAYERS of 120 Turns each...is also on this thread.
I had used a Bifilar just because there are two strands of wire turned together. Not Center Tapped. This is NOT a Kickback Coil.

Input I said I used Three LiPo Batteries 12V each pack (11. Something volts each ) 2200 MAmps.


I am glad you are a "Non Giving Up easy person"...but please...do not make me repeat things that are already written , discussed and explained in detail here...I do not have the time.

Thanks

Ufopolitics

Hello Fathershand,

That is a "heavy consumer" motor for the test...However, a bit complicated, because the 4 brush system. You have to realize that a 4 brush system motor uses all four sections of the Quadrant , therefore it "pulls" , drains or require more "juices" than a two brush system.

The Coil you will have to build should be greater (I would say double, at least) than the Motor resistance. It has to be a robust coil to stand the demand from motor and be balanced out. And this is talking about the Primary...

I would do the following:

Before winding the Secondary, do it just with the Primary (It works also great this way)...But mainly this is to test the robustness of your turns...watch for overheating of any one (Coil or Motor)

Measure the real draw of motor on "Normal Conditions" , temperature, meaning supplying the required by factory spec's...etc...This needs to be done for all testings...otherwise How could you tell the difference?

I just looked it up and found it has two speeds?...draws 33 to 40 amps?...check the Ford specs...please...if it is so...then your power source would need to be in compliance...definitively -if it is like this- is not good for this testing.

Thanks

Ufopolitics

Hello Netica, BBen,

Here it is updated...I had to take apart my working N-Channel to see it all...I added this two little caps, and delete the other resistors...

Thanks Kapierenundkopieren for your help, could you run this one and tell me what your software tells you?...appreciate it , thanks again!!

I hope it works for you now...

Attached Thumbnails

 

Hey! UFO, you are somethin else what a gift you have. I have been holding back on supplying the info you asked for, not because I am being procrastinating, but, to stop myself from being instant gratification, and hitting dead ends(motor is two brush). I've been watching and reading how things are progressing in this nuclear and exciting very evolved thread. I realise that SLA batteries in my mobility scooter, which are a pain in the booty are out of the equation. Thus I have spent some time to research. Would you let me know if I'm navigating in the correct direction. You stated 36 VDC Lithium. I found this company which is in our ball park though they seem to be out of stock for what I require at present. UFO here is their web address. Maybe it will be of interest to others here to if you give me the Green light.

Results for DIY BATTERY PACK KITS

Let us know please when you get a moment or two, and thank you so very much for allowing me into your office.
Take it easy,
Love and honour,
WingsTalysis

__________________
I AM THE ONE

Hey Wingtalysis,

Lovely things they have in that site!!...They are kinda expensive though...

The one thing I do not like, is that Batteries are LiFePO4...They do not have a good reputation, after the Lithium Eon and Lithium Polymers came out...

However, I saw the chargers, they look pretty new style, light...
Try to find out if they are 1C, 2C or 3C...That's the charging rate...We need them 3C, the fastest charge rate, but I doubt it...since Fe takes very long to charge.

Regards

Ufopolitics

Hey! Ok UFO,
Appreciate your kind input. I will comply. Also, Where would you recommend I purchase the required batteries. I'm rather new at this so I appreciate you sharing what 1C, 2C or 3C means.As I get up to Thought Speed with your kind assistance, I will be more beneficial to you and all the other evolved beings in your Office of Light.

Thank you UFO for being you, and putting yourself out to help us all.I also thank our Bro's who follow you, and share their experience, that also helps neophytes not unlike me.
Take it easy,
Wings:cool

__________________
I AM THE ONE

Dear UFOPolitics,

I read all your posts, most of the information I asked for you have not provided at all, Vin is about all, I was polite to you! I asked, for the record, a few parameters that would take all of about 10 minutes to take!

I am disappointed in your response here! I have used this circuit for 12 years, so this is not new my friend; you’re not cutting the edge of science here. Bob Teal before us in 73 was doing this, Nikola Tesla before him, so get off your high horse and if you want people to replicate your work, give them the appropriate information.

I thought you had something there for a while, but revising your information, I believe this is nothing more than attitude? We both know that Inductance is not calculated correctly for Bi-Filar Coils! Especially if the Core OD is not given! by giving a milliamp reading with no numbers is not an amperage reading!

If you can’t provide simple information that people are asking for then you are wasting everyone’s time here!

Unfortunately I will not be wasting any more time with you as this sort of response tells me that you’re hiding something! Besides Fluorescent tubes are the worst load to indicate power output that you could find. They pull sucker punches and most that have experience will agree with me.

Best of Luck UFOPolitics - EMJunkie

Hey EMJunkie,

You landed here for your first time...asking for lots of info, my friend, that it IS ALL HERE, on the posts.
The OD is here, the original Coil also description with AWG, the Oscillator in great detail, plus pictures, diagrams, etc.
I had specified the Original Coil WAS NOT BIFILAR, but You want to 'jump' to Bifilar arrangement without trying the original set-up first.

Look at above post, some people are stock in a simple LM317 Voltage Regulator that is also everywhere on the net...However, I took my time, took apart my oscillator to go to the newest components I added...that I do not have to remember off hand, since I have moved to better oscillators -also discussed here- However, I did made a new graphic and post it here...and it is not 'precisely' a "Hand Drawing".

You wanna know many parameters you could find out yourself with the first simple test I provided here.

I am sorry but You did not go over all the posts here, not only from me, but from everybody else here.
Asking about OD?...We discussed that with even pictures here.
AWG?...We also went over that over and over...
Input specs?...also
and so on.

I know also about the Rules on Forums, my friend, and It is not polite, to be asking for things are already written here...just because youi 'decided' to 'land' directly to last page.
No, it does not work that way.
Sorry.



Related to..."You are not cutting the edge of science here..."

My answer is: We will see...

Goodbye and good luck

Ufopolitics

Trust me UFO This is not my first time, I have traveled under many different names, but if I remember this was your first time?

I was still polite to you - so I deserved a real answer?

You may be asking why I said about Flouros?

Because the Inert Gas, typically Argon, gets excited by the high frequency and only small transients are enough to light them at high frequency. This requires very low power and is definitely not an indication of power output by the rated Fluorescent tube ratings.

Best of Luck UFOPolitics - EMJunkie

Besides, there is also about ten other people asking for more information also so no you have not provieded the information at all!

It would have been quicker for you to just give the information than grunt and moan because youre too busy, dont you think!

I cant believe the arogance here - if you want to do this - give people the information - how hard is that?

It actually should have all been given in your first post - correctly and clearly for people to follow!

...

You have started a thread, this is nine pages of nothing - Time wasting - No information except Vin = 36v.

@Ufopolitics
@Netica
@BBen

Hello guys! I did a simulation of the updated voltage regulator, but the output voltage was only about 2,6V ... so i corrected the resistors values (see picture below).
Now it looks fine... and this time I added a load of 6mA (the potentiometer) to simulate the maximum consumption of the 555 timer circuit.

@Kapierenundkopieren
Thanks!
Output voltage is 1.25(1+2000/240)= 11,67V, that's more like it.
Bert

Thanks Kapierenundkopieren!!

My mistake was on one of the resistors, the parallel to the diode, second from left to right was 220 Ohms instead of 2.2K...The brown was kind of faded out and look like red...sorry about that.

Anyways I am glad the problem got resolved...just need to hear Netica also solve the regulator.

Cheers

Ufopolitics

No reason to be rude here EMJunkie since UFO is being very helpful and giving all for free. You are starting to look like your intentions are to be disruptive to this thread.

I've built power supplies around LM317's before and found it helpful to use a variable resistor (pot) in the voltage setting position so voltage can be adjusted to what you need under load and with any particular set of other values that may be off a bit in the circuit.

__________________
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